How I converted two mock jean pockets to real ones (With Pictures)
This is how I converted two fake/mock (aka mocked) jean pockets to real ones.
I made a pattern for the pocket lining as I found it easier. To do so, I determined the needed pocket length by measuring right below the palm up to the middle finger (which is usually the longest).
Then added 5/8” for a seam allowance (use your desired one).
The length ended up being 8”, including the 5/8” seam allowance.
To determine the pocket width, I turned the jeans inside out. I measured the width between the side seam and ½” before the fly /zipper opening on the side of the jeans without the little inner pocket.
The measurement was stopped 1/2” before the zipper fly opening to avoid getting caught in it. The width was 7.5”, including the seam allowance.
Note: After measuring the other side of the jeans from the side seam to just before the zipper/fly, I decided to use the same pattern for both pockets as they were similar in measurement.
One pocket ended up being attached fully to the side seam. The other pocket was attached just to the top part of the side seam on the other side of the jeans.
- Use white tracing paper (or brown paper, the back of wrapping pattern, or whatever you desire at least 1 inch wider and longer than the size of the pocket lining you want to create, including its seam allowance) for the pattern.
- I used a gridded cutting mat to ensure the lines I drew would be even. The tracing paper was anchored with pattern weights after aligning the top and side of the pattern on lines on the mat.
I marked a dot ½” away from the edge of the left-hand corner and ½” down from the paper top.
Next, I marked a dot 8.125” inches (7.5” plus 5/8” or .625” seam allowance) to the right of the first one and drew a line to connect the two dots.
I went back to the first dot made at the upper left-hand corner and marked a dot 8.125” inches straight down from it, then drew a line to connect them.
I repeated these steps with the second dot at the top right-hand side of the paper. After ensuring the lines were evenly spaced 8.125” apart from down, I connected the two dots at the bottom to make a square shape.
To make the curve for the pocket, I measured the width between the start of the existing curve of the mock pocket and the side seam, excluding the seam allowance.
Then I made a dot to the left of the side seam at the top of the pattern. Next, at every ½” interval, I measured the length from the top of where the pattern would lie down to the existing curve and marked a dot representing this length on the pattern.
I connected the dots to make the curve and then drew the 5/8” seam allowance for the curve.
Picture of one existing mock pocket on the right side of the fabric.
The jeans have a stud on the side seam, so I elected not to take the side seam apart due to not wanting to deal with the stud’s removal and reinsertion.
Picture of the other mock pocket on the other side with the small inner pocket.
Picture of the jeans turned inside out, showing the mock jean pocket for the side without the small inner pocket.
Picture of the jeans turned inside out showing one of the mock jean pockets (side with the small inner pocket).
I cut out the pocket on the fold of the material (even though I planned to sew a seam at the bottom) using the pattern I created.
Note: If you do not wish to make a pattern, cut out a square for the pocket the needed size and make or trace the curve (remember to add a seam allowance).
Open up the pocket lining and serge the left side. Note: Before serging, I made sure to disengage the cutter as I didn’t want to trim any of the pockets.
Serge the top and curve of the pocket lining.
Use your seam ripper to open the seam in the mock pocket carefully; the two open sections you create will become your pocket).
Note: I did not remove the topstitching on the bottom portion of the existing seam, just the second stitch line/seam.
On the wrong side of the jeans, I opened the pocket lining pinned just the top portion to the curved bottom section (the wrong side of the pocket lining faces the wrong side of the jeans).
I then sewed and serged it.
Next, take the bottom part of your pocket lining and fold it up so you can pin it to the top open section along the open curve.
Your pocket lining now should be folded with the two sides together (right sides of the lining face together).
Sew these two top pieces of your lining together and then serge them.
Pin the left sides together and then the right sides of the pocket lining.
Stitch a 5/8” seam on the left side of the lining, across the bottom, the right side, and the top. Serge the right side of the lining.
Attach the left side of the pocket to the side seam and stitch them together. Be careful not to sew through to the outside of the side seam. Serge the right hem.
Stitch the seam line you removed on the outside of the pocket. Note: You should see the imprint of the stitching.
Then stitch the bottom seam under the existing topstitching on the pocket.
Stitch across the top of the pocket on the outside to hold the top down.
In retrospect, I should have made the top of the pocket lining longer so I could stitch right underneath the waistband.
Put in the pocket lining on the other side, repeating the steps above. Stitch the top portion of the other lining to the seam to hold it down.
Again be careful not to stitch through to the outside seam. The only exception is the top of the other lining will be attached to the top of the inner pocket.
Pictures of the open pockets.